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‘Farm shop may have been beaten by Clarkson’s, but its bar is second to none’

Whether it’s choosing between the Clarendon and Juno filters for your latest photo dump of the cat on Insta, or trying to prove you’re not a robot but failing the traffic light task, life’s difficult enough as it is.

But I decided to make mine even harder with my latest mission, trying to find that most elusive of things – a cocktail bar in the shadow of Britain’s oldest brewery.

Wild Box is an independent bar based at Macknade Food Village in Faversham
Wild Box is an independent bar based at Macknade Food Village in Faversham

I remember hearing that Faversham had so many pubs that you could go to a different one every week without having to cross the same threshold twice.

Cocktail bars in Shepherd Neame territory, though? Not so easy. This is a town that prefers a pint to a Pornstar Martini for sure.

I’d need to think outside the box – or should that be inside it? Wild Box started out as a mobile bar company and now operates at two locations, at the harbour arm in Folkestone and where I now find myself, just off the A2 at Macknade.

Its founder, Laura Taylor, who herself worked for Shepherd Neame for more than 10 years, spotted a gap in the market and, after transforming an old horse trailer, set up her own touring hospitality business.

It’s one that champions Kentish produce, including locally made artisan spirits – and I’m more than happy to support that cause.

Inside the hop barn
Inside the hop barn

At Macknade, though, the horse box has made way for a barn in the complex’s food village, which is open on selected days in the spring and summer months.

It’s gloriously rustic but with some vintage touches from Tiffany lamps, period furniture and monochrome photos of film stars from a bygone age. In short, imagine how it’d look if your great aunt Agatha were put in charge of décor at a hoedown.

The thing that really caught my eye, though, was the size of the cocktails being lugged away from the bar in what looked like trifle bowls.

I quickly ordered one – a generously endowed Spicy Marg – while my drinking buddy dutifully went for a Ginger Mojito in a bid to try to sample everything Wild Box had to offer in one sitting.

Worry not, dear reader – there were a modest three concoctions to choose from on this revolving menu.

The Ginger Mojito and Spicy Marg went down a treat
The Ginger Mojito and Spicy Marg went down a treat

When we visited, the regular Friday Night Live session was underway, so we pulled up a hay bale in the field next to the barn and listened to acoustic rock tracks in the sun while we got to work on the drinks.

We were in good company.

The place was packed with couples and families, the wilier of which had brought their own blankets to make those bales a little less itchy.

A fair few had brought their dogs too, adding to the festival atmosphere.

And everywhere you looked… Margs.

Friday Night Live sees live music at Macknade every week
Friday Night Live sees live music at Macknade every week
Wild Box is open Fridays to Sundays during the warmer months
Wild Box is open Fridays to Sundays during the warmer months

For some time now, we’d been chasing the shadow of a Spicy Margarita we’d had in Costa Rica and now, at last – with all of the kick and none of the air miles – I’m happy to say we’d found one that measured up. And what a measure too!

The Ginger Mojito, despite declaring my disdain for mojitos before trying it, was definitely best in class, and a nice, warming twist on the usual.

They weren’t cheap, at £12.50 a pop, but given the margarita was the size of a small fish bowl, and made with premium, local spirits, I wasn’t complaining.

Next up, and completing the bar’s holy trinity of offerings, my drinking buddy got a Gin Bramble, which came bursting with blackberries and robust flavour.

While small, the carefully curated menu meant the mixologists could get a prep station going, so there was barely any wait.

The Gin Bramble was bursting with berries
The Gin Bramble was bursting with berries

The only cause for pause was when I asked for a glass of wine and was asked: “Is that a pint?”

I’d like to say the barmaid had misheard me, but, having already experienced their measures with the margarita, I can’t be certain.

Back outside, and watching the sun go down against the backdrop of a Fleetwood Mac cover, we reflected on what a unique venue this was.

We’d been fans of Macknade for some time.

The food hall has just been named the second best in the UK – beaten only by Jeremy Clarkson’s Diddly Squat Farm Shop, made popular by his hit Amazon Prime series.

Wait times were low despite the bar being busy
Wait times were low despite the bar being busy

Catch up with the Secret Drinker’s latest review here

But the Faversham complex is not just somewhere to pick up bee juice – it’s now a foodie paradise, thanks to its partnership with Wild Box and pop-up eateries plus wellness facilities including a gym, countryside sauna and massage studios.

There’s even a vet’s.

I can’t imagine West Oxfordshire District Council letting Jezza get away with all that, can you?

And while Diddly Squat might have edged Macknade into second spot for its farm shop, I can attest to the fact that the drinks here are truly second to none.

So, what Faversham might lack in quantity of cocktail bars, it certainly makes up for in quality. Mission well and truly accomplished.

Macknade Food Village is a great spot to watch the sun go down
Macknade Food Village is a great spot to watch the sun go down

Wildbox at Macknade Food Village, Selling Road, Faversham, ME13 8XF

Décor: Rustic with vintage touches. It’s the best looking hop barn I’ve been in – but that’s a niche category, admittedly ****

Drinks: The Spicy Marg was as good as any I’ve had, and that’s not a niche category. The cocktails here were on another level, and I can’t wait to go back to try some of the other concoctions I’ve seen teased on their socials. There’s also local beer, cider and wine on offer *****

Price: Given the premium Kentish spirits, large measures and live entertainment, even at £12,50 each, I can’t say you don’t get what you pay for ****

Staff: The bar team were a well-oiled machine, getting drinks out quickly, meaning minimal time away from the band and the sun ****

Best for: Families

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