It’s not every day you visit a historic landmark that you can only reach by water.
But that is the unique draw of the Kentish Lady’s boat tour to Allington Castle.
The little-known gem nestled in Maidstone is shielded by woodland and rests on the bank of a bend of the River Medway.
With its perfectly curated gardens, medieval courtyards and centuries of royal and rebellious history, it remains one of the county’s best-kept secrets. Especially as it’s closed to the public (most of the time).
Unless planning a wedding, the Kentish Lady offers the only route inside the castle, which has remained a private residence since the current owner, Sir Robert Worcester, took charge.
The tours run on Tuesdays between April and October and cost £35 per person.
Our journey began on the riverbank, beside the Archbishop’s Palace in Maidstone town centre.
The scenic cruise of about 20 minutes offers a chance to take in the historic sights.
We passed under Maidstone Bridge, which first opened in August 1879 and was formed from designs by Sir Joseph Bazalgette, the engineer of the Thames Embankment and London Sewer System.
There was commentary from the skipper on passing landmarks. The serenity of the river’s wooded banks and tucked-away homes gives little hint of the busy trade route it once was.
After our first passing glimpse of the castle, we turned around at Allington Lock and docked at the private mooring on the edge of the estate, our gateway to the grounds.
A short stroll through shaded woodland opened into a breathtaking panorama, the castle’s grey Kentish ragstone framed by green lawns and flower beds.
Built in the 12th century, Allington Castle has seen its fortunes rise, fall, and rise again.
It began as a manor house under William de Warenne, Earl of Surrey, before being fortified by Stephen de Pencester, Lord Warden of the Cinque Ports and owner in the 13th century.
Pencester, an influential figure under King Edward I, secured a licence to furnish the manor in 1281 – effectively transforming it into a true castle.
These battlements, combined with its strategic riverside position, made Allington a powerful defensive and political seat.
We crossed the moat via a footbridge and entered the first courtyard, lined with fragrant roses and a traditional herb garden.
There, beside an unassuming stone, we heard one of the castle’s most colourful stories – that of Sir Thomas Wyatt, a poet, diplomat and courtier to Henry VIII.
Wyatt inherited Allington Castle in the early 16th century, and his presence here brought literary distinction and political danger.
He counted Anne Boleyn among his acquaintances, though rumour and rivalry nearly cost him his life when Henry suspected a romantic connection.
His own son, Thomas Wyatt the Younger, would later lead a failed rebellion against Queen (Bloody) Mary, sealing the family’s tragic downfall.
It was Wyatt the Elder, however, who supposedly kept a pet lion on the estate.
One day, returning from his travels, the lion failed to recognise him and attacked.
His faithful dog intervened, buying Wyatt time to draw his sword and kill the beast.
The dog died of its wounds, and the spot – marked by a heavy chain fixed into stone – remains a curious symbol of the tale.
From the courtyard, we gazed upon the exterior of the castle’s long gallery, an elongated room once used for walking, entertaining and displaying family portraits.
Through a low archway, we emerged into the second courtyard, where the castle’s Tudor wing – built to accommodate wealth and comfort – comes into view.
Henry VIII is said to have visited. Looming nearby is Solomon’s Tower, a surviving medieval turret harking back to the castle’s original defensive role.
Then came the true showstopper: the Great Hall. Restored with painstaking care by its current custodians, it’s hard to overstate its splendour.
On the walls hang 16th-century Flemish tapestries, acquired at auction by Sir Robert Worcester – the American-born British pollster and businessman who bought the castle in the 1990s.
The former University of Kent chancellor and founder of MORI has restored the castle not just as a residence, but as a living document of Kent’s layered past.
At one end of the Great Hall sits a minstrel’s gallery, from which musicians once performed for noble guests.
At the other end, a long table – the higher your seat, the greater your importance.
Nearby, a grand fireplace which would once have warmed feasting guests.
Arched doorways can be seen at one end leading through to the kitchen and the buttery – used for storing ale and wine, and a vital part of the household’s operation.
Back outside, the tour moved through a secluded lower garden, before a short walk up to the greenhouse and beyond to the Italian garden.
This area comes adorned with stone archways, with weaving roses clambering around them and a small domed seating area, a popular spot for wedding photos.
Passing by a small pond garden, the stillness offering a peaceful moment, we head onto the lavender walk and back to our starting point outside the castle gate.
This area is said to have been the favourite spot of Sir Robert’s wife Lady Margaret and now features a memorial to her following her death in December 2020, aged 87.
We emerged from under heavy tree cover and into expansive views of the ground. Though the estate today spans just 47 acres, it once encompassed thousands, extending well into what is now Maidstone’s Mote Park.
Our 90-minute tour came to a close all too quickly. With sunlight on the water, we reboarded the Kentish Lady for the gentle ride back to Maidstone, with a complimentary tea, coffee or juice, plus a slice of cake.
For most, Allington Castle remains invisible – hidden from roads, tucked behind trees, and off-limits to the general public. That’s part of its allure.
This tour opens a rare window into a private world – a journey through the ages.
We disembarked having explored the history and beauty of a part of Kent that some may never have known was on their doorstep.
